Balos Beach and Gramvousa Crete: Practical Information About Visiting the Bay and Island Including Car Routes, Ferry Schedules, Venetian Fortress History and Beach Infrastructure Details
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There are still places about which people say it’s better to see once than hear about a hundred times. In Crete, this is the uninhabited island of Gramvousa with its famous pirate fortress and the magical Balos Bay, where three seas meet – the Cretan, Libyan and Ionian.
In Crete, this is perhaps the only place where on clear days you can see up to a dozen and a half shades of seawater – from delicate azure to rich blue: the beauty is indescribable, the delight genuine. Tourists from all over the world come here for impressions, as well as for amazing stories about the life and adventures of Mediterranean pirates.
Today I’ll tell you about Gramvousa Island and Balos Bay, how to get here, about tours, what you can see here and whether it’s worth going.
Gramvousa Island and freedom Greek-style: description and brief history
The history of Crete is full of events inextricably linked with the history of mainland Europe. Thanks to its extremely advantageous geographical position, it changed hands many times – sometimes honestly, sometimes dishonestly.
And Gramvousa Island, territorially belonging to Crete, has been one of the trump cards in military-political disputes for the last 400 years.
Actually, Gramvousa consists of 2 islands: Imeri Gramvousa (southern) and Agria Gramvousa (northern). It’s just that historically and geographically, the two islands ended up united by one name. By the way, the versions of its origin are extremely interesting, which, however, doesn’t exclude their far-fetchedness.
- The first version connects the word “Gramvousa” with the Venetian expression “Capo Buso” – “holey edge”, because of the cave piercing the Korykos peninsula, at whose tip (Cape Tigani) the islands are located.
- The second is even more amusing and is based on the consonance of the mini-archipelago’s name with the Italian expression: “a place where there’s lots of cabbage”.
View from the fortress on Imeri Gramvousa
Perhaps once these arid places were famous for their gardens. But they gained even greater fame, not the best kind, thanks to pirates who were “making cabbage” of a completely different kind here.
Moreover, they were pirates mainly in the eyes of the then owners of Gramvousa Island – the Ottomans. But for Cretans and Greece as a whole, those who captured in 1825 a strategically important stronghold in the Mediterranean Sea – the fortress on Imeri Gramvousa, built by the Venetians – they were folk heroes.
The fortress was indeed a practically impregnable structure, providing control over shipping at the narrowest point between Crete and the Peloponnese. The Venetians erected it in 1579 during their countless wars and skirmishes with the Turks.
The fortress is built in the shape of a triangle, 2 sides of which are reliably protected by a 137-meter-high cliff, and no matter how much the Turks tried to take the stronghold by siege or force, their attempts invariably failed.
At least this was the case until the Neapolitan Giocca was appointed fortress commander. Whether it was an old grudge against Venice that played its role, or some other motives, but he surrendered the stronghold to the Turks in 1691. For good pay, including lifetime residence in Constantinople as an honored guest.
The fortress on Imeri Gramvousa was an impregnable structure
For 130 years the fortress, bristling with 70 cannons, remained in Turkish hands. In 1821, rebels during the Greek War of Independence briefly recaptured it, but soon left again.
Four years later – in 1825 – 300 fighters from Crete, hardened in battles for independence in the Peloponnese, disguised in Turkish clothing, managed to occupy it again. And they weren’t planning to give it up in the foreseeable future, although the Ottoman Empire managed to temporarily suppress the uprising in Western Crete.
Soon the population of Gramvousa Island, including the garrison and civilians fleeing Turkish tyranny, numbered about 3 thousand people.
However, freedom is freedom, but Gramvousa Island is practically a lifeless piece of rock where there’s neither fresh water nor food. And the Greeks, as natural seafarers, had to take up the pirate trade.
The bay’s multicolored appearance is explained by the fact that the three seas in Balos lagoon have different temperatures and water clarity
Balos Bay - the Cretan Maldives
It would seem, what else can Crete surprise you with, but the amazing is nearby. This is Balos Bay at the tip of the Korykos peninsula, right opposite Gramvousa. For its amazing landscape, luxurious beach and multitude of water shades, it’s often called the “Cretan Maldives”.
The bay’s multicolored appearance is related both to the fact that the three seas “meeting” in the lagoon have different water temperatures, and to the water clarity that completely exposes the fairway.
Balos Bay with its namesake sandy beach is located in the western part of the Greek island of Crete. The beach is located not far from Imeri-Gramvousa Island.
This is one of the most popular places in Crete, tours are often brought here, and tourists who have been here once want to return again. And many, visiting Crete repeatedly, come to swim at Balos beach again, despite the fact that getting here from most of the island’s popular resorts is problematic – it’s a long drive.
Shallow swimming at Balos beach, an excellent place where you can relax with children too
The fact is that Balos is the confluence point of three seas. At this place the waters of the Ionian, Aegean and Libyan seas join, and the water in the bay changes color depending on the time of day. Tour guides speak of 20 different shades – from light turquoise to dark blue.
Most of the bay consists of shallows. The bottom at Balos beach is sandy, the sand is white with a pink tint. Because of this, the water looks very beautiful and is almost 100% transparent.
The beaches of Balos Bay are “wild”, there’s no infrastructure at all for most of the year. However, this doesn’t stop travelers who come here mainly as part of tour groups. However, there are also those who visit Balos in a rented car (fortunately, the choice of companies providing such services in Crete is extremely wide).
When sunbathing at Balos beach off-season, use sunscreen – in spring and autumn there’s no infrastructure, and consequently no umbrellas to protect from the sun.
Panoramic view of swimming in Balos Bay
Beach infrastructure
If you visit Balos beach at the height of the season, from June to August, you can count on sun loungers and umbrellas being set up here. They can be rented. There’s also a shower, toilet and changing cabins. Mobile cafes appear, however you can’t count on menu variety.
There are usually more people here in the morning and afternoon. In the evening there are practically no tourists.
Trips to Gramvousa Island and Balos Bay are second in popularity only to tours to Santorini
Balos attractions
Traditionally, visiting Balos Bay and beach recreation in this area are combined with exploring a number of attractions. For example, the Temple of Apollo and the ancient Roman city of Agnion. Unfortunately, only ruins remain of Agnion (and there aren’t many of them).
In addition to the opportunity to see the confluence point of three seas, vacationers can see many shrubs in the bay area, like heather, thyme, and pistachio grows here. But there are no trees at all.
Balos is also a place where you can see a huge number of different bird species. But for this you need to come here during migration.
Not far from the bay and beach is Imeri-Gramvousa Island. It’s uninhabited, however on the island there’s a Venetian fortress, as well as ruins of structures built by Cretan rebels and pirates who owned the island during the Greek War of Independence in 1821-1830.
Weather at Balos beach
Summer on Crete is hot and dry. There are more than 300 sunny days a year here.
In the Balos Bay area, air temperature rises above +30°C in summer. In June, thermometers show +27…+28°C. Water temperature at this time is +22…+23°C.
The peak season falls in July and August. The air temperature is about +32…+33°C, the water also becomes very warm, +26…+27°C. Sometimes even higher!
Autumn at Balos beach is also warm. It’s especially nice to relax here in September, when there aren’t many tourists, and the air and water are still warm. Air temperature equals +25…+26°C, and water temperature +24…+25°C.
How to get to Balos Bay and Gramvousa Island
Usually Balos Bay and Gramvousa Island are visited in one trip. But you should seriously prepare for this tour. Firstly, in season the sun spares no one, and creams and ointments against its rays won’t be superfluous.
Secondly, the best views of Gramvousa open only to those who make the ascent up the stairs to the fortress. Yes, to a height of 137 meters. Moreover, there are big problems with the steps on this staircase. More precisely, these aren’t even steps, but stone blocks broken into large and small pieces.
In principle, there’s nothing dangerous about the climb itself (unless you risk taking the other, shorter pirate trail). But your feet will thank you if you shoe them properly. Best of all – in closed sports shoes.
Take flip-flops and sandals with you if needed. As well as water, because you’ll definitely want to drink in the heat, especially during the ascent, and there are no shops on the fortress territory. But the sea views that will open before your eyes will be able to make you forget about much.
You can reach Balos Bay in two ways:
- by rental car;
- by ship with a tour group or independently.
Tourist ferries that deliver to Balos Bay and Gramvousa Island
To Balos Bay by car
You can drive from Chania, through Kissamos and Kaliviani village. You need to drive along a dirt road, following the navigator, to reach the top of the mountain where there’s a parking lot (some also park cars along the road). From the mountain you’ll have to descend, walking about 2 km down steep stairs. If you want to drive by car on the road leading directly to the beach – a pass costs 2 euros. In the evening – free.
Route map to Balos Bay from Chania
But you need to understand that in this case you unfortunately take a risk. The fact is that car rental contracts in Crete often specifically state: driving to Balos Bay is prohibited, insurance doesn’t cover this trip.
And insurance may be needed. Asphalt on the road from Kissamos lies only up to Balos Beach hotel. Further you’ll be able to properly feel all the charm of Greek mountain dirt roads with all parts of your body, especially in a small car.
8 km on rough roads, where on one side there’s a mountain, on the other – a cliff – is below-average pleasure. But if you already have experience with such travels, you can imagine you’re just driving to the dacha. True, for a long time and in someone else’s car.
Due to road surface peculiarities, trips to Balos Bay by car often end with torn tires, the cause of which will be a challenging task to explain to the car rental owner.
Might be useful: you can read more about car rental on Crete in this article
There are rumors that Greeks deliberately don’t pave the road to naturally limit the number of tourists coming to Balos Bay and protect the area’s pristine nature.
Asphalt on the road from Kissamos lies only up to Balos Beach hotel, further only dirt road
Besides tires, a threat also awaits the car body, including hood, roof, and sometimes glass. The fact is that on the upper platform of Balos Bay, where the “road” ends and there’s an improvised “parking”, quite numerous groups of goats graze.
In summer heat, when sparse vegetation burns out under the sun’s rays, they settle into the “parking lot” hoping tourists will share something tasty. Often, these searches for provisions end with goats climbing onto cars, leaving traces of their hooves on the smooth surface.
For those who are still going to visit Balos Bay independently: to find an excellent car rental option in Crete and generally in Greece, based on the price/quality ratio, I recommend using the following three services for comparing offers from various car rental companies: DiscoverCars, EconomyBooking, AutoEurope.
Goats in the parking lot near Balos beach
To Balos Bay by sea
By ship is another matter. But first you need to get to Kavonisi pier, from where tour vessels depart to Balos Bay. The pier is located in Kissamos (Kastelli). You can get there by car or bus from Chania or other cities.
Buses run frequently, stop right at the pier, but attention should be paid to morning flights. The fact is that pleasure boats depart for Gramvousa Island and then to Balos Bay only in the first half of the day.
In total, 3 tourist boats operate on the line: “Gramvousa”, “Gramvousa Express” and “Spirit of Athos”. Vessels depart from the pier at 10:20 and 10:40 am from April to October, alternating on the line, the third vessel – at 12:30, but only in July and August.
When there’s a large influx of tourists, a “spare” boat may also go on the route, however its schedule changes from year to year. All ships return to Kissamos between 17:45 and 19:30.
A round trip costs (prices are as of 2020):
- 13 Euros for children from 3 to 12 years old;
- 27 euros – for passengers 13 years and older;
- children under 2 years travel free.
When buying a ticket at the port, you’ll also be additionally charged a local fee of 1 Euro for each passenger from 13 years old.
You can reach the island and bay from Kavonisi pier